A Rock Climber’s Guide to the Best Sport Climbing Crags in Red Rock Canyon and Southern Nevada, While Climbing with Infants, Toddlers, or Children

About This Guide

Tara has been climbing for her entire life just about and she quite literally roped me into the sport when we first met in 2017. From there we have climbed outside in about half of the states in America and multiple foreign countries. It has been a hobby that we have only fallen more in love with over time and built our bond trusting each other in process. We were determined not to let children stop us from doing what we loved. Not only that, but we wanted to build an appreciation of the outdoors into our children. With this of course, climbing is an inherently dangerous sport, so we knew if we were going to bring infants and toddlers to crags, we would have to do it in a safe and intelligent way.

In Southern Nevada that means finding crags that are mainly in washes or canyons, seeking flat areas where children can roam without the danger of cliff sides. Short and not too steep approaches are key when you’re carrying in climbing gear, child gear, and children. We also want to choose relatively well-established areas that have less chance of shedding rocks or holds. Finally, it is better to have some room away from the wall to allow some space for the kids to play and have space from other climbers.

After climbing 2-3 days outside in Southern Nevada and the surrounding area over the course of the last couple of years we have compiled this list with parents in mind and through a lot of hit or miss experiences. With that said, we are confident that this list will give parents living in the area or coming to Red Rock on vacation a guide of crags that are suitable for infants, toddlers, and children.

Notes About Red Rock Canyon Logistics

If you’re flying into Las Vegas, you should rent a car if you intend to climb in Red Rock or any of the surrounding areas. There is no public transportation into the park. Also note that camping is very limited to Red Rock Canyon Campground or BLM land about 50 minutes away in Lovell Canyon.

If you’re climbing in Red Rock from September through May, inside of the park (not in Calico Basin) you will need to get a reservation from Recreation.Gov that costs $2 per vehicle if entering between 8 AM and 5 PM. Our advice, get up early and just get in the get before 8 AM to avoid the reservation, which really just goes directly to Booze Allen Hamilton, the consulting firm that set it up, not the actual park.

Where to Fly:

·        There is only one major airport, Harry Reid International Airport (LAS). Flights are typically cheap and abundant to meet any schedule.

Where to Stay:

·        Red Rock Casino Resort & Spa – Roughly $250 per night depending on the time of year, if you’re looking to explore Red Rock nothing will be the location and proximity of this hotel.

·        Durango Casino & Resort – At $250-275 per night the Durango is the newest hotel and casino in Las Vegas and people are raving about the property, as well as all of the amazing restaurants inside. It will be a roughly 15 minute drive from the Durango to the entrance of Red Rock Canyon.

Where to Eat (Local Favorites):

·        The Lazy Dog Restaurant and Bar – American Fare

·        SmokinT’s BBQ & BAR – Locally run BBQ, the beef and pork burnt ends are incredible

·        Settebello Pizzeria Napoletana – Neapolitan Pizzas and Italian that never disappoints

Other Family Friendly Attractions Outside of Climbing and the Strip:

·        The Pinball Hall of Fame

·        Go see a Las Vegas Aviators Minor League Baseball game – Tickets can be had for under $20 per seat and we recommend $2 beer nights

·        Go to one of the many splashpads at a local park, they are everywhere and a great way to beat the heat

The List (See below for more detailed information on approaches, grades, terrain, sun/shade, and our favorite routes):

#1 Classic Rock Wall – Red Rock Canyon 1st Pullout Calico Tanks

#2 Cactus Massacre/ Cactus Corridor – Red Rock Canyon 1st Pullout Calico Tanks

#3 Black Corridor – Red Rock Canyon 2nd Pullout Calico Tanks

#4 Meetup Wall – Red Rock Canyon 2nd Pullout Calico Tanks

#5 The Wake-Up Wall – Red Rock Canyon 3rd Pullout Calico Tanks

#6 Front Corridor – Red Rock Canyon 3rd Pullout Calico Tanks

#7 Cannibal Crag – Calico Basin

#8 Cowlick Crag – Calico Basin

#9 Comedy Crag Left – Mount Potosi

#10 Gun Club – Outskirts of Summerlin

#11 Rock Islands – Lake Mead

#12 Walla Walla Wash (Temporarily Closed) – Mount Charleston

#13 Yellow Pine (Temporarily Closed) – Mount Charleston

#14 Walden – Mount Charleston

Honorable Mention in Nearby Areas and States

St George

#15 Chuckwalla Wall

#16 Turtle Wall

#17 Kelly’s Rock

#18 Indian Wall

#19 Cove Wash

New Jack City

#20 White Face and Raven Rocks North Face

Joshua Tree

#21 Campfire Crag and The Bilbo Buttresses

#22 Willit Pillar

#23 East Side

Our Detailed Write Up for the Infant, Toddler, and Kid Friendly Sport Crags List:

1. Classic Rock Wall – Red Rock Canyon 1st Pullout Calico Tanks

Approach Time and Steepness: 6-8 minute approach, 0.2 miles and 150 feet of descent

Grade Range: 5.8 – 5.11

Area Topography: Crag is in a gravel wash/little canyon. Plenty of flats areas to spread around and for kids to play.

Sun/Shade: You can find shade all day long at this crag as well as sun. There are multiple walls facing different directions, so as one goes into the sun another will be in the shade.

We had to start out this list with our favorite. This is a relatively new crag established in 2022 and has become a favorite in the tanks due to its short approach from the 1st pullout and quality of climbs. Everything here is amazing and you can find a range of features from huge huecos you can sit inside, to slab, boulder routes, and some great pockety climbs. I have lead every climb at this crag and seriously have loved them all. This is our weekend go to if we have both of the kids and need plenty of space.

Our Favorite Routes:

Sends in Low Places 5.8 – Amazing hand holds and great for a beginner climb. Everything is solid here.

Climber’s Paradise 5.10- - Big huecos and great movement.

Another Bolt in the Wall 5.11 a/b – This climb has it all and an interesting side pulling crux.

2. Cactus Massacre/ Cactus Corridor – Red Rock Canyon 1st Pullout Calico Tanks

Approach Time and Steepness: 10-15 minute approach, 0.3 miles you go through a little maze of rock formations, a few hand at waist scramble moves, but all very doable.

Grade Range: 5.5 – 5.12a

Area Topography: Flat area on bedrock with a small boulders around if you’re worried about tripping hazards.

Sun/Shade: Shade in the morning and then full sun late morning and afternoon.

The approach on this one can be a bit confusing, but use mountain project and you will be fine. This area is varied and has a lot of climbs that you could keep coming back to if you’re in the moderate range. We had no problem bringing our toddler and baby up here and even just this high up you get great views of the park. This crag sits just a bit more North and higher than Classic Rock Wall.

Our Favorite Routes:

Cholla 5.8 – A fun and long meandering route with lots of features. A very safe lead for beginners.

Reprobate 5.9+ - A fun juggy route as good or better as anything in black corridor.

White After Labor Day 5.10b – Right next door in the corridor, fun technical moves over a bulgy crux.

Cactus Massacre 5.11c – All jugs, big overhang, and lots of heel hooks.

Area is a lot flatter behind the belay than it appears here with the wide angle.

3. Black Corridor – Red Rock Canyon 2nd Pullout Calico Tanks

Approach Time and Steepness: 15 minutes and 0.4 miles. Bes to use Mountain Project to navigate if this is your first time, although if you see any climbers on the trail they will surely be able to direct you to this famous crag.

Grade Range: 5.7 – 5.11c

Area Topography: This is a flat slot canyon. The walls are relatively tight with between 4-8 feet between the canyon walls. Best to go early to avoid the crowds if you’re going with kids. This is an excellent summer crag with all of its shade if you get out early.

Sun/Shade: Shade until mid-afternoon, then evening shade.

There are two levels to Black Corridor and the lower level is much more kid friendly. The upper level is a jigsaw of fallen boulders with little rock crevasses and uneven terrain. Although, if you have older children maybe 6 or older or those that climb, the upper level is a great spot with tons of fun routes. We absolutely love Black Corridor, but it may feel a bit sandbagged compared to many other Red Rock crags. The bolting is a little more spaced out, maybe 8-12 feet between bolts, rather than the 5-8 feet that you might find at some other crags. Still if you’re a moderate climber an solid in the 5.9-5.11 range, this is a must visit.

Our Favorite Routes:

Bonaire 5.9 – A great warm-up with some thoughtful moves on a mixture of juggy holds and crimps.

Nightmare on Crude Street 5.10d – Big jugs on great holds lead to a fun crux over the lip.

Rebel Without a Pause 5.11a – Similar to Nightmare of Crude Street, but a much different crux to get over the lip that requires some brute strength, fancy footwork, compression or ideally a combination of all three.

4. Meetup Wall – Red Rock Canyon 2nd Pullout Calico Tanks

Approach Time and Steepness: 30 minutes, 0.6 miles and roughly 300 feet of gain. This crag is steeper to get to, but if you’re using an Osprey Poco it should be fine and the wash of the crag is very friendly for kids.

Grade Range: 5.6 – 5.10b

Area Topography: A flat wash in corridor that is roughly 15-20 feet wide.

Sun/Shade: Early morning shade and the sun will start creeping in by mid-morning.

This is a bit of an approach to get to, but it was really cordoned off once we got to the crag, which meant there was plenty of space for our toddler to wander around while still being kind of trapped in the area by a small ledge system and trees. This is a nice crag for the budding leader or someone not familiar with slab. There are slab routes all along the North wall which gets a lot of sun and the South facing wall has a couple juggy routes that are mainly in the shade all day. Because of the approach length, this crag is usually a little less crowded.

Our Favorite Routes:

Sponsors Wanted 5.9 – Great intro to red rock slab with thoughtful moves but very safe bolting.

Sally 5.9 – Excellent movement left to right on the South Wall. The only bad part is how short the route is.

The Pumpkin King 5.10a/b – Completely different from the other climbs on this wall, a mixture of technical feet, crimps, and jugs will get you to the anchors.

5. The Wake-Up Wall – Red Rock Canyon 3rd Pullout Calico Tanks

Approach Time and Steepness: 15 minute approach on a well establish trail and flat terrain.

Grade Range: 5.8 – 5.12c

Area Topography: This is mostly flat bedrock that is about 15 feet wide and has plenty of space away from the climbing wall.

Sun/Shade: Morning sun, afternoon shade.

This area is one of the few moderate areas in the 3rd pullout, but still has some challenging 5.12 climbing as well. It can get windy here, but otherwise this crag is well protected from the sun in the afternoon and the wide space allowed us to setup our Bend River Baby tent. The climbing here may feel a bit stiffer than some of the other areas in Red Rock as the white sandstone just has a little different feel.

Our Favorite Routes:

Skid Mark 5.9+ - A great slabby climb with plenty of fun finger pockets.

Mics Master 5.10b – A fun pumpy and juggy route on a nice overhanging arete. This may feel harder than a lot of other 5.10 mid-range climbs in the park, but it is worth it!

Pain Check 5.12a – A hard line to break into the 12 grade, it is sustained with long moves, but it has really nice flow through the route.

6. Front Corridor – Red Rock Canyon 3rd Pullout Calico Tanks

Approach Time and Steepness: Like 100 steps from the parking lot

Grade Range: 5.9 – 5.13b

Area Topography: This is a tighter slot canyon tight area with a relatively flat bottom. Great for more advanced climbers looking to push the grade with infants or children nearby and shaded.

Sun/Shade: Fun shade just about all day.

It is amazing how quickly you can get away from the tourist crowds and duck into this corridor just off the parking lot. It’s ease of access and shade make this a fantastic crag if you’re a solid 5.12 climber. If you tend toward the moderates, I would skip this one as even the 5.11s and 5.10s are pretty heady here.

Our Favorites:

Shouting Match 5.10d – Really one of the only warmups in the area if you are a mortal. This had some thin movement and was a little runout for the grade and a warmup. Again this is a more advanced crag.

High Noon 5.11a – This is another thin and technical climb with runout. I suggest being very solid at the great for this one, but it is quite fun.

Sunsplash 5.13b – This is above my paygrade so I can’t attest to the climb, but it has a 3.9 star rating out of 4 on mountain project with about 20 reviews, so I’d venture to say its pretty solid.

7. Cannibal Crag – Calico Basin

Approach Time and Steepness: 6-8 minutes from the parking area, 0.2 miles and only 50 or so feet of elevation gain. About as easy as you will find in Red Rock.

Grade Range: 5.7 – 5.12d

Area Topography: Flat bedrock with tons of area to spread out and get away from the wall.

Sun/Shade: Shade in the morning on the back side and then it will flip in the late afternoon with shade on the side of the crag facing the parking lot.

This crag is quite popular with its easy approach and free access in Calico Basin as opposed to the reservation and fee system in the park further down the road. You will have tons of room to spread out if you have little ones and everyone here is friendly. There is a great range of climbs and you can even find a couple of trad routes here which were surprisingly fun. If you’re dropping the kids off for babysitting this is also a great crag because you can cut out the roughly 25 extra minutes it will take you to do the one-way loop road if you went into the park. The views all around the basin are stunning, but beware you will likely be in the sun here so I would avoid it in the summer.

Our Favorites:

Mac and Ronnie in Cheese 5.9+ - Nice climb for the grade up cruiser terrain with nice protection. It is a good sampling of many different features.

What’s Eating You 5.10a – This climb is a bit more crimpy and offers a little exposed feeling, it makes for a nice warmup or for your try hard route of the day.

Caustic Cock 5.11b – This route is classic for the exposed pictures you can get of climbs on the overhanging arete. There are a few big moves here and if I could give you any advice it would be just go for it. So many people get hung up looking for the right hold or right foot here, pick something decent and move fast.

8. Cowlick Crag – Calico Basin

Approach Time and Steepness: 15 minutes, 0.75 miles on pretty flat terrain and a well established trail

Grade Range: 5.5 – 5.9+

Area Topography: Flat area in the wash around the base of this leaning in giant boulder.

Sun/Shade: Mostly sunny throughout the day with either early morning or late afternoon shade.

Whenever we have friends in the area who have never climbed this is our go to area. The wall leans in at a roughly 75 degree or so angle so it is beginner friendly and it is easy to set up top ropes if you don’t want to lead. I’ll be honest, if you’re a climber, this crag is actually not that great of quality for Red Rock. The rock feels a little looser, there aren’t a ton of unique features, and it is just a lot of incline slab.

Our Favorites:

Cow Lick Co Crag 5.7  - This route will get you to the very top of the wall and has some of the more interesting climbing with the eyebrow undercling, it is also a sport route.

Flying Chuckwalla 5.7+ - Nice top rope up slab with a few little pockets and jugs.

Limestone Alternatives in Southern Nevada

9. Comedy Crag Left – Mount Potosi

Approach Time and Steepness: 20 steps from the parking area, you could even watch a child sleeping in a car.

Grade Range: 5.7 – 5.11c

Area Topography: Completely flat area, but about 100 feet from the highway pass so keep an eye on little ones that can walk/run.

Sun/Shade: Mostly shaded until the late afternoon.

The proximity of the wall to the parking area is hard to beat. I would not venture up to higher up crags with kids as the trail is steep and the crags sit right on the cliffside. We found these climbs to be much more difficult for the grade compared to the rest of Southern Nevada limestone and sandstone included. Still the rock is not crazy sharp compared to the Gun Club, below, and it is an easy way to get out and climb, especially if it has rained since wet sandstone is a big no-no for climbing. No real favorites here as none of the routes really stood out to us.

10. Gun Club – Outskirts of Summerlin

Approach Time and Steepness: 0.2 miles and 50 feet of gain, about a 5 minute walk from the parking lot.

Grade Range: 5.8 – 5.12b

Area Topography: The crag is a little slanted up a low sloping hillside. This is a nice crag for infants or for kids maybe 4+ that are sturdier on their feet.

Sun/Shade: Depends on the side of the canyon you’re on, the right side will see morning sun and afternoon shade, with this reversed on the left side (looking up the canyon).

This is a fun limestone crag right next to an awesome park, Cliff Shadows Open Desert Park, which your kids will love with slides embedded into the hillside. The climbing itself is pretty sharp and is hit or miss depending on the route. I wouldn’t go out of my way to visit this crag, but if you’re desperate because of rain it’s a good option.

Our Favorites:

Sunshine Side Grip 5.9 – Nice line with excellent movement and flow.

Buttstroke 5.10b – Fun climb next to the giant hueco. Move fast through the middle bolts as that is where the sharper holds are, but the movement is fun.

High Caliber 5.12a – One of the less sharp 5.11/12s at the crag, which you will like when you’re pulling hard. The movement is nice and there are definitive cruxes so the route gives you natural rests or cruiser areas. 

11. Rock Islands – Lake Mead

Approach Time and Steepness: 20 steps from the parking area, you could even watch a child sleeping in a car. Drive to the backside of the crag just to be safe, there is a no driving sign off the highway.

Grade Range: 5.2 – 5.9

Area Topography: Flat base at the start of the crag, then 20-30 feet uphill for some of the climbs.

Sun/Shade: Morning shade, afternoon sun.

This is a quirky area right next to Lake Made and Boulder Beach if you’re in the area. The climbs are nothing noteworthy, but the rock is very different than anything else you will find in the area with a mix of conglomerate and volcanic rock. We felt this area was quite sandbagged for the grade and its possible that these climbs have changed dramatically over time with shedding rock. Everything felt solid that we pulled on, but the holds are just strange and we didn’t find a ton of flow in the climbing. Just a heads up, if you’re a 5.6-5.8 climber, this might not be the best place for you to sharpen your leading skills.

Our Favorites:

Little Lizard 5.6 – Fun face climb right near the wash with interesting and sometimes slopey holds.

Gila Monster 5.7 – The best in the area, up a crack feature then to a cruiser section for the upper bolts.

12. Walla Walla Wash (Temporarily Closed) – Mount Charleston

Approach Time and Steepness: About 15 minutes up a flat and easy wash.

Grade Range: 5.8 – 5.10c

Area Topography: Very flat in a gravel wash with plenty of room away from the wall.

Sun/Shade: A mix of sun and shade throughout the day depending on the time of year and the arch of the sunrise/set in the sky.

This was such a fun crag and a great way to beat the heat in the summer. Sadly, this area is temporarily closed as it was damaged by storm systems that moved through the area in Fall of 2023; however, trail building is actively occurring. Kids will love the abundant chipmunks and squirrels in the area and there is always shade in the pines surrounding the wash. This is a great place for a moderate climber to break into the 5.10 range with excellent climbs! We climbed every route at this crag in a morning session with our toddler in tow and loved every route.

13. Yellow Pine (Temporarily Closed) – Mount Charleston

Approach Time and Steepness: 20 minutes, this is right next to Walla Walla Wall, but you have to climb a roughly 200 foot hillside to get to the base of the crag.

Grade Range: 5.9 – 5.12a

Area Topography: The crag itself is about 10 feet wide with flat areas and gentle slopes, but I would not let the little, little ones wander too far as the hillside can be steep.

Sun/Shade: Morning shade with afternoon sun.

Excellent climbing here in the 5.10 – 5.11 range, but beginners will find this area challenging. The climbs are nice in length and have amazing features throughout. The limestone was nice and smooth here as well. This is a summer and early fall crag. Unfortunately, just like Walla Walla, this crag is temporarily closed as trail building takes place although check back for 2025 openings.

Our Favorites:

1057 5.10b – Such fun movement up blocky features with a thoughtful crux that may leave you scratching your head if this is your limit. Hint, there is quite a bit of body lean on the crux.

The Punisher 5.10b – Solid, sustained climbing all the way up on fun blocks.

14. Walden – Mount Charleston

Approach Time and Steepness: 10 minutes, 0.3 miles but 250 feet of gain and a burner of a short hike

Grade Range: 5.10

Area Topography: A nice flat area on the way up to Little Falls that is right next to the tree line.

Sun/Shade: Sun most of the day until the late afternoon.

This area is for the solid 5.10 climber who likes limestone slab. The hike up does not require any scrambling, but it is a burner with carrying kids. The crag itself does not have a ton of room, but the rock is slab with not a ton of features so we thought there was little risk of rocks shedding. This is a nice alternative for the summer and surprisingly for the Mount Charleston area this is one of the better approaches you will find. There are only 5 routes at this crag, but we found all of them enjoyable and unique in their own way.

Honorable Mention in Nearby Areas and States (Within 3 Hours from Las Vegas):

St George, Utah

15. Chuckwalla Wall

Approach Time and Steepness: 2 minute flat approach from the parking lot

Grade Range: 5.9 - 5.13b

Area Topography: Completely flat desert, tons of room for the kids to play

Sun/Shade: Morning shade with afternoon sun

This crag has a gym feel and with it goes incredible convenience for those with kids. This is an easy 2-hour drive from Las Vegas and makes for an excellent day trip or a nice base if you’re going to be exploring Zion, Bryce, or any of the other nearby parks. Get some laps in early and beat the heat. Personally, we liked the climbing better at Turtle Wall just down the road, but the sandstone here is still nice and has plenty of features.

Our Favorites:

Solace 5.10a – Wonderful sandstone honeycombs and jugs make this climb a blast.

The Garden of Eden 5.10d – Thoughtful moves to get over the slopey bulge, but nicely protected. 

16. Turtle Wall

Approach Time and Steepness: 1 mile, but only about 20 minutes as the approach is flat through the desert.

Grade Range: 5.8 – 5.13c

Area Topography: Flat desert area with plenty of room to spread out.

Sun/Shade: Opposite of Chuckwalla, morning sun with afternoon shade

A nice alternative to Chuckwalla crag if you’re looking for something a little quieter with more of an outdoor feel. All of the climbing here is fantastic and if you have little ones that can walk and wander they will have a fun time with the safe, but varied desert surrounding the crag.

Our Favorites:

Lambada 5.11a – A fun way to break into 5.11 climbing if you’re ready with huge jugs on an overhang. This route is similar to a lot of the pumpy 5.11 Red Rock routes that are famous.

Dancing Fox 5.12a – Short 5.12 route and a good way to break into the grade with some cool moves, use a stick clip if you’re not confident at the grade.

Largado 5.12a – Similar to Dancing Fox, but much more overhung and will require you to keep your feet on the wall to get the finish.

17. Kelly’s Rock

Approach Time and Steepness: 5 minute approach through a flat desert wash

Grade Range: 5.6 – 5.13b

Area Topography: A nice gravel wash with tons of space for kids

Sun/Shade: Morning sun and afternoon shade

This is a great away for larger groups as the climbing is so varied and has everything from beginner routes, up to harder 5.13 routes. I can’t comment on the 5.13 climbing as that’s out of our grade, but we have heard it is good from several others at the crag. The rock here is beautiful and makes for some nice pictures. The remoteness of this area is great for camping and letting the kids play with few worries.

Our Favorites:

The Awakening 5.9 – I’m a sucker for stemming and side pulls so this route was just plain fun for me.

K-8 5.11b – Perfect flow, just absolutely perfect. Everything is right where you want it.

18. Indian Wall

Approach Time and Steepness: 5 minute approach through a flat desert landscape

Grade Range: 5.9 – 5.10c

Area Topography: Flat area with space away from the wall, but beware of the cactus nearby that can sometimes hide near the brush

Sun/Shade: Morning shade and afternoon sun

This is a fun area to climb and a nice way to break up all the fabulous hiking in Snow Canyon State Park. The climbing is slabby and I would say a little difficult for the grade, especially if that is not your style. We saw 2 bail biners in this area, which is a good warning sign. Still the climbing is fun and balancy, it makes for a nice change up from a lot of the juggy or crimpy areas in this guide.

Our Favorite:

Tomahawk 5.9 – A tricky slab route that will make you proud to finish in the giant alcove.

19. Cove Wash

Approach Time and Steepness: 10 minutes, this is up a flat wash in a small canyon with only 30 foot walls, but it will require one spot of negotiating over a 7 foot tall block in the wash. The boulder is easy to scramble over carrying a child and in flip flops, but is worth noting. This is also an excellent spot to camp for free.

Grade Range: 5.7 – 5.11c

Area Topography: Once in the canyon the wash is almost completely flat and a safe place for the kiddos to play with plenty of space away from the climbing.

Sun/Shade: Morning shade that disappears quite quickly then comes back in the late afternoon.

This is a super fun area that we have been back to several times while traveling through St. George. The camping has a beautiful overlook towards Snow Canyon and it is just a nice quiet area where you’re unlikely to see many other climbers. Every route here is fantastic and even the hardest 5.11, Gummer’s Route, is so well protected with only a 1 bolt crux, that if you’re a budding 5.11 leader you can get through this one. All of the routes are so different and even the 5.8 and 5.9 have some tricky moves that are no gimmies! We love this place and it is one we will continue to visit for many years to come with and without kids of all ages.

New Jack City – California

20. – White Face and Raven Rocks North Face

Approach Time and Steepness: parking lot belay practically with a 10 foot walk

Grade Range:

Area Topography: Flat desert, but watch out for some broken glass from disrespectful campers that does happen out here.

Sun/Shade: Morning shade, the rest of the day sun.

This entire area is great for families with kids of all ages. The areas are all pretty flat and there are hundreds of sport routes of all grades, mainly moderates, all over the area and within a short walk and drive from each other. Spend the entire weekend out here and enjoy as many of the areas as you can.

Our Favorites:

Whitehead 5.9 – Fun movement up horizontal ledges at times, don’t forget to use your feet!

Holey Moley 5.10a – Not in the same area, just down the road, but one of the most fun and tricky 5.10a’s we have ever climbed. It deserves to be on the list and the crag is kid friendly with lots of flat space. Raven Rocks is maybe a 0.1 mile hike from the parking area.

Joshua Tree - California

21. - Campfire Crag and The Bilbo Buttresses

Approach Time and Steepness: Belay from the van, 5 foot from the parking area. However, this area is a lot of campsites so you may have to scootch behind others camping to get to the crag.

Grade Range: 5.6 – 5.12-, beware this is Joshua Tree, take the grades lightly if you haven’t climbed here before, it is a very different style of climbing.

Area Topography: Completely flat desert nestled in between big boulders.

Sun/Shade: Morning shade, the rest of the day sun.

We love this area and the entire Indian Cove Campground. If you can park at this campsite even temporarily to climb at the crag, you can literally block your kids in with your car in between two large boulders. There are several fun climbs through the 5.6 – 5.10 range right in the same area.

Our Favorites:

I Love My Marine 5.6 – A great intro to Joshua Tree climbing. Don’t underestimate this because of the grade, the slab will still make you nervous.

Feminine Itch Direst Start 5.10 b/c – A balancy and trusting climb where you will absolutely have to work through your feet to get this one.

22. - Willit Pillar

Approach Time and Steepness: Same as the above Joshua Tree crags and in the same area, about a 20 foot walk of an approach.

Grade Range: 5.8

Area Topography: Completely flat desert nestled in between big boulders.

Sun/Shade: Morning shade, the rest of the day sun.

Another great spot, mainly with trad climbing, but still in the Indian Cove Campground and is a fun area to get over to just for Will It or Won’t It. The kids will have plenty of space to roam here and will have a really fun time playing on the small boulders in the area.

Our Favorites:

Will It or Won’t It 5.8 – A really fun arete climb with great exposure and tricky moves.

23. – Approach Road Crags - East Side

Approach Time and Steepness: 4 minute walk from the parking area, across flat desert and into a large cave in between boulders that kids will love.

Grade Range: 5.6 – 5.9

Area Topography: A good sized cave that adults can stand in and you can fit a small kid tent in, the surrounding area is flat desert

Sun/Shade: The climbing has mostly all day sun, but the save area right next to the climb is in the shade.

This is a unique area just for the cave that has been created from the giant boulders that fell once upon a time. The climbing is actually well protected sport climbing, but up the usual Joshua Tree slab that will make you work for it. A nice place to stop off to take a break from hiking and let the kids play. There are only three routes here and they were all fun.

Sometimes the top rope belay had to be double duty with demanding toddlers, other times on lead you have to go in direct mid-lead.

We wish we would have had this list when we first moved to the area, rather than having to do trial and error lugging children and huge packs up to crags that were just not feasible for young kids. We hope you enjoy this guide and it comes in handy.